The Mastery of Our Craft

Our Craft | London Ethical Pearl Jewellery – From First Sketch to Heirloom Masterpiece

True Craft Is Invisible Until You Feel It

The weight of a clasp closing. The way a strand settles against the skin without adjusting. The slight resistance of a well-set post. These are not accidents. They are the result of decisions made long before the piece was photographed — decisions about proportion, about metal depth, about the number of millimetres by which a setting cup is raised.

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We do not describe our process as artisanal because the word has lost its meaning. We describe it as what it is: small-batch, examined, held to a standard that would embarrass us if it slipped.

The Pearls

We work with three pearl types, chosen for what each does.

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Freshwater pearls are grown in freshwater mussels, primarily in China. Warmer in colour than saltwater pearls, more varied in form, more accessible in price. We select them for lustre — the sharpness of the light they reflect — rather than for roundness alone. A slightly off-round pearl with exceptional lustre is more interesting than a perfect sphere that sits flat.

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Akoya pearls are grown in the Akoya oyster in Japan and China. Rounder, cooler in colour, sharper in lustre. The benchmark pearl for a strand. Every Akoya piece in the collection uses pearls hand-graded across the full strand — matched for lustre, colour, and form by the same hands that will string them.

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Baroque pearls are the ones that refused to be round. The nacre deposited unevenly as the pearl formed, and the result is a shape that is entirely its own. We use baroque pearls where the irregularity is the point — not as a cheaper alternative to round, but as a deliberate design material. The Baroque Sovereign collection was built around them.

The Metal

Entry and mid-tier pieces are made in 18-carat gold vermeil: a layer of 18-carat gold, at least 2.5 microns thick, deposited over a base of 925 sterling silver. The distinction from standard gold plating is material. Standard plating sits on a base metal and may be less than one micron thick. Vermeil requires sterling silver as the base and a minimum gold depth. The difference is felt over years, not weeks.

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Solid gold, 14-carat or 18-carat, is used at the upper end of the range. Vermeil is retired at the premium tier. Every product on the site is named correctly: if it is vermeil, it says vermeil. If it is solid gold, it says solid gold.

The Construction

Premium strands are hand-strung on silk thread and hand-knotted between every pearl in the traditional manner. The knot does two things. It prevents pearl-on-pearl contact, which would erode the nacre over time. And it means that if a thread ever frays, only one pearl is at risk — the rest remain strung. A hand-knotted strand can be restrung indefinitely. We offer complimentary restringing under our lifetime aftercare.

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We examine every piece before it leaves the studio. Not by exception. By practice.